A former San Diego cab driver and continuing amateur photographer. I can an answer any questions that you may have about a range of Canon DSLR cameras (with the exception of flash photography), and more specifically the EOS 5D Mark II. While I showcase many photos from the San Diego and Southern California area, a have added a range of international photography as well. My primary focus is on nighttime photography.
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
Thursday, July 26, 2012
Icy Waterfall
Sunday, July 22, 2012
Monday, July 9, 2012
Sunday, July 8, 2012
Fireworks
Fireworks, Mission Bay
San Diego, California, United States
July 2012
Canon 5D Mark II
Focal Length 105mm
Aperture 6.3
Shutter 8 sec.
ISO 400
It's quite difficult to correctly set your shutter when shooting fireworks. For this shot i shot with a shutter of 8 seconds. This allowed me to catch several explosions in one image. The difficulty in shooting fireworks occurs because the intensity of the light is ever changing. While you may be able to meter for say - the skyline. You could meter off of that with out any fireworks going off. However since you will be capturing added light in the form of fireworks, there will be overexposure in the skyline. This is a good time to use exposure bracketing. You also may want to anticipate the extra light that will be coming in and over expose. My suggestion - correctly expose for the skyline while there is a break in fireworks. Then use your 3 exposure bracketing increments (or however many you have, Canons have 3 typically) and purposely underexpose your 3 shots. this way you can pick the best one. Since you are shooting with a tripod (hopefully) you could experiment with HDR techniques. If you have an exposure compensation function you could also use that to capture additional exposures of the same picture. Me personally, I don't have the patience to do all of that, but if you do, it may be well worth the wait
It's quite difficult to correctly set your shutter when shooting fireworks. For this shot i shot with a shutter of 8 seconds. This allowed me to catch several explosions in one image. The difficulty in shooting fireworks occurs because the intensity of the light is ever changing. While you may be able to meter for say - the skyline. You could meter off of that with out any fireworks going off. However since you will be capturing added light in the form of fireworks, there will be overexposure in the skyline. This is a good time to use exposure bracketing. You also may want to anticipate the extra light that will be coming in and over expose. My suggestion - correctly expose for the skyline while there is a break in fireworks. Then use your 3 exposure bracketing increments (or however many you have, Canons have 3 typically) and purposely underexpose your 3 shots. this way you can pick the best one. Since you are shooting with a tripod (hopefully) you could experiment with HDR techniques. If you have an exposure compensation function you could also use that to capture additional exposures of the same picture. Me personally, I don't have the patience to do all of that, but if you do, it may be well worth the wait
Wednesday, July 4, 2012
Playing With Color Post-Production
Grand Palace
Bangkok, Thailand
April 2009
Canon 5D Mark II
Focal Length 24mm
Aperture 22
Shutter 1/100 sec.
ISO 250
The easiest way to adjust the colors of your photograph is to isolate each color channel and adjust them one at a time. The tint of the photo can also be adjusted. Try it before and after making color adjustment. Playing with the color temperature is also an easy way to adjust the color. Generally speaking, when you shoot the sky with a lower color temp Ex. 3500k (kelvin) you will have a blue/bluish look. If you shot around say 8000k you will have more of an Orangish look. Playing with the tint and the color temp. is a great way to give your photos more of a vintage, or film look.
Bridge and River
Tiber River
Rome, Italy
November 2008
Canon Rebel XT
Focal Length 25
Aperture 10
Shutter 1/1600
ISO 400
For this picture I had been walking around and wasn't paying much attention to my settings. If I was able to set the shutter to 1600, I clearly could have shot at a lower ISO. I could have went to an ISO (exposure) of 100 and kept a fast shutter. Surely above 1/320. Then I probably could have closed the aperture a bit as well giving me a greater depth of field. I shot this around mid-day. If you had the patience, it would look best about 30 minutes before the sun goes down. If you brought a tripod you could get a crystal clear, even looking image. You could set your ISO to 100 and set your shutter and aperture as slow as you want.
Monday, July 2, 2012
Sunday, July 1, 2012
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