A former San Diego cab driver and continuing amateur photographer. I can an answer any questions that you may have about a range of Canon DSLR cameras (with the exception of flash photography), and more specifically the EOS 5D Mark II. While I showcase many photos from the San Diego and Southern California area, a have added a range of international photography as well. My primary focus is on nighttime photography.
Wednesday, May 30, 2012
The Danube
Labels:
budapest,
budapest architecture,
danube,
hungary,
stone and chain bridge
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
Switzerland
Labels:
alps,
church,
church in innsbruck,
innsbruck,
innsbruck church,
swiss alps
Monday, May 28, 2012
Steps and Fountain
Labels:
fountain,
fountain in rome,
roman fountains,
roman steps,
spanish steps,
spanish steps fountain,
spanish steps with fountain,
steps in rome
Statue
Labels:
bridge,
gold horse statue,
gold statue,
golden horse statue,
golden statue,
horse,
horse on pedestal,
paris,
sculpture,
statue of horse on bridge
Thursday, May 24, 2012
Mountains
Labels:
cliffs,
nature photography,
photographing mountains,
photographing nature,
zion national park
Thursday, May 17, 2012
Using the Reduce Noise Function in Photoshop
For this photo I had a noisy look that I wanted to get rid of. Filter > Noise > Reduce Noise. I used 0 for the preserve details slider and 10 for the strength slider. I lost much of the photos definition but gave it a soft rich look with and soft colors.
Fountain
Place de la Concorde, Paris, France
October 2008
Canon Rebel XT
Focal Length 11
Aperture 22
Shutter 10 sec.
ISO 400
Not a huge difference, except for the discerning eye perhaps.
This is the original without any retouching. I don't mess around with the white balance because you can just adjust it in one quick easy step in post production. In Aperture 2.0 I use the slider under the adjustments tab. The original had too much of a orange look to it due to the types of light sources.
Fountain
Place de la Concorde, Paris, France
October 2008
Canon Rebel XT
Focal Length 11
Aperture 22
Shutter 10 sec.
ISO 400
Not a huge difference, except for the discerning eye perhaps.
This is the original without any retouching. I don't mess around with the white balance because you can just adjust it in one quick easy step in post production. In Aperture 2.0 I use the slider under the adjustments tab. The original had too much of a orange look to it due to the types of light sources.
Wednesday, May 16, 2012
Setting Your Shutter at Night
Differing shutter speeds at night will give you a much more dramatic feeling shot as opposed to differing shutters during the day time. During the day you will be able to capture things like water flowing, and capture it in a fluid, flowing motion. You will be able to take objects in motion completely out of your pictures - like traffic on a freeway for example.
During nighttime it's a different story. Anything that moves with your shutter open during the photographs exposure will come out blurred. If your object remains steady it will come out sharp. What's great is that you can have the best of both worlds. Case and point.
Moulin Rouge Cabaret
Paris, France
October 2008
Canon Rebel XT
Focal Length 18mm
Aperture 25
Shutter 5 sec.
ISO 100
You can see how the building and all inanimate objects come out crisp and sharp while the rotating windmill comes out blurry. Often times setting a show shutter at night will give you spectacular light trails. Especially with fast moving objects along a set path - eg. a freeway where all the cars follow a nice organized pattern as they are bound by the freeway. Here, the spoke of the windmill was anchored at the middle, so since the edge of its spoke was at a fixed length it formed a perfect circle an added uniformity to the light trails. Lighting that's sporadic and disorganized may give you a messy looking image. It looks best when your light trails are uniform. It's really all personal preference though.
Here in the picture below the windmill was moving slow enough that it appears to have been perfectly (or nearly) still over the 1/30th of a second (shutter speed) that the shutter was open. Another big difference with this shot is the increased level of light that you are able to see throughout the photo. The highlights are much more toned down as well and the words that were illegible in the first photo are sharper and the backlighting is more even and subdued.
You could also get the illumination in the foreground found with typical aperture on the lower numbered side of the spectrum (wider apertures, F4, F5.6, F7.1 and so on), while creating a blurred image like the top photo if you used a higher strength neutral density filter. Probably a .09 would be best to use to slow the shutter so a level low enough to capture great light trails in the above picture. You could try more or less for different effects.
During nighttime it's a different story. Anything that moves with your shutter open during the photographs exposure will come out blurred. If your object remains steady it will come out sharp. What's great is that you can have the best of both worlds. Case and point.
Moulin Rouge Cabaret
Paris, France
October 2008
Canon Rebel XT
Focal Length 18mm
Aperture 25
Shutter 5 sec.
ISO 100
You can see how the building and all inanimate objects come out crisp and sharp while the rotating windmill comes out blurry. Often times setting a show shutter at night will give you spectacular light trails. Especially with fast moving objects along a set path - eg. a freeway where all the cars follow a nice organized pattern as they are bound by the freeway. Here, the spoke of the windmill was anchored at the middle, so since the edge of its spoke was at a fixed length it formed a perfect circle an added uniformity to the light trails. Lighting that's sporadic and disorganized may give you a messy looking image. It looks best when your light trails are uniform. It's really all personal preference though.
Here in the picture below the windmill was moving slow enough that it appears to have been perfectly (or nearly) still over the 1/30th of a second (shutter speed) that the shutter was open. Another big difference with this shot is the increased level of light that you are able to see throughout the photo. The highlights are much more toned down as well and the words that were illegible in the first photo are sharper and the backlighting is more even and subdued.
You could also get the illumination in the foreground found with typical aperture on the lower numbered side of the spectrum (wider apertures, F4, F5.6, F7.1 and so on), while creating a blurred image like the top photo if you used a higher strength neutral density filter. Probably a .09 would be best to use to slow the shutter so a level low enough to capture great light trails in the above picture. You could try more or less for different effects.
Moulin Rouge Cabaret
Paris, France
October 2008
Canon Rebel XT
Focal Length 18mm
Aperture 5.6
Shutter 1/30
ISO 400
Tuesday, May 15, 2012
Grilling
Labels:
bell pepper,
canonfanatic.visibli.com,
chicken,
green pepper,
grilling,
onion,
pineapple,
pork,
shisch kabob,
sish kabob,
skewer,
weber grill
Silhouette 4
Labels:
model,
ocean beach,
ocean beach san diego,
san diego,
silhouette,
sunset cliffs
Sunday, May 13, 2012
Statue and Fountain
Labels:
fountain,
germany,
horse sculpture fountain,
munich,
munich sculptures
Saturday, May 12, 2012
Cathedral
Labels:
cathederal,
italy,
milan,
milano cathedral in milan
Thursday, May 10, 2012
Wednesday, May 9, 2012
Sky
Labels:
italian sky,
italy photography,
photography in italy,
photography in rome,
sky,
sky italy,
sky over italy,
sky over rome
Selective Desaturation
Palm Tree and Skyline
Rome, Italy
Canon Rebel XT
Focal Length 21mm
Aperture 5
Shutter 30 sec.
ISO 100
Given below is the same photo with no adjustment made to the red color channel. I wanted to achieve a darker, richer look in the photo and remove the red cast that was present due to the street lighting. Color casts such as this are common with sodium vapor lights. After reducing the red channel by around 80% I adjusted the "black point" in aperture 2.0 to give the sky a richer, darker look. For both of these photos I also lowered the yellow levels. I also lowered the luminosity of the greens and adjusted the definition by 100%.
And below is the untouched original.
Palace Grounds
Labels:
bangkok photos,
bangkok royal palace,
bangkok's grand palace,
Grand Palace,
grand palace bangkok
Sunday, May 6, 2012
Using the Shadows Function in Aperture/Photoshop
This is a great example of how the harsh mid day sun throws unsightly shadows over unwanted portions of your subjects. This is a bad photograph, which would have tuned out much nicer if I had been able to shoot later in the day under more even, less direct, sunlight. Shown below is the original photo. (Some minor adjustments were made to color, contrast, and definition/sharpness.
Shadows at 25%
Shadows at 50%
Shadows at 100%
As you can see the feature brightens only the underexposed portions of the photograph, the face of the statue and some parts of the trees to the right. The sky is virtually untouched. This was done in Aperture 2.0, where you only have the option of going to 100% with the shadows feature. However if you were using Photoshop you would have the option to infinitely adjusting the intensity of the shadows feature, however you could only go to 100%, as the slider would reach its maximum. You would then apply the adjustment and manually select the adjustment again. Since you had applied the adjustment to 100% already, the next time you applied the shadows function the adjustments to the picture would have remained. Thus, if you adjusted the shadows function by another 100% you would have actually increased the shadows by 200%. The picture would look terrible, and it is not something that I would recommend, but it serves as a good example of the functionality of the program(s). For this image you would have better luck turning it to black and white or adding an artistic filter of some sorts. However, the grain/noise would likely be more pronounced in a black and white photograph.
When you increase the shadow you also increase the noise of the photograph as shown below.
Statue
Berlin, Germany
Canon Rebel XT
Focal Length 11mm
Aperture 13
Shutter 1/250
ISO 400
Much of the detail of the face of the statue is masked in darkness due to the angle of the sun. The easiest way to deal with this would have been to use a flash, although unfortunately I didn't have that luxury.
In many post production products you are able to brighten underexposed areas selectively. This is an adjustment sometimes called "shadows". If you used a brightness adjustment it wouldn't differentiate and the entire picture would be brightened. While the underexposed areas would be corrected, more or less, the correctly exposed areas would become overexposed. Shown below is is the same photograph at different strengths of the shadows adjustment.
Shadows at 50%
Shadows at 75%
As you can see the feature brightens only the underexposed portions of the photograph, the face of the statue and some parts of the trees to the right. The sky is virtually untouched. This was done in Aperture 2.0, where you only have the option of going to 100% with the shadows feature. However if you were using Photoshop you would have the option to infinitely adjusting the intensity of the shadows feature, however you could only go to 100%, as the slider would reach its maximum. You would then apply the adjustment and manually select the adjustment again. Since you had applied the adjustment to 100% already, the next time you applied the shadows function the adjustments to the picture would have remained. Thus, if you adjusted the shadows function by another 100% you would have actually increased the shadows by 200%. The picture would look terrible, and it is not something that I would recommend, but it serves as a good example of the functionality of the program(s). For this image you would have better luck turning it to black and white or adding an artistic filter of some sorts. However, the grain/noise would likely be more pronounced in a black and white photograph.
When you increase the shadow you also increase the noise of the photograph as shown below.
Shadows at 0% (No adjustment)
Shadows at 100%
Saturday, May 5, 2012
Silhouette 3
Labels:
Fisherman,
ocean beach photography,
ocean photo,
photo of fisherman,
photos of ocean beach,
photos of sunset cliffs
Silhouette 2
Labels:
ca photos,
ocean beach,
ocean beach california,
ocean beach photos,
sunset cliffs photography,
sunset cliffs photos
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
Skyline
Swans
Labels:
swans,
swans in lake,
swans in lake zurich,
switzerland,
zurich
English Mastiff
Labels:
mastiff,
mastiff dog on couch,
mastiff photos,
photos of mastiffs,
zeus
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
Arch
Labels:
arch,
balboa park trees,
cool trees,
cool trees in balboa park
Polar Bear
Labels:
Polar bear,
polar bear growling,
polar bear san diego zoo,
san diego zoo,
zoo animal photography
Prague
Labels:
black and white prague photos,
czech republic,
prague,
prague photography,
prague skyline,
skyline in prague
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